Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education hub featuring in-depth fitness, nutrition, and adventure courses and more than 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside+ For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. I got out the map and came up with a plan, but it wasnt perfect. I got my leg stuck in postholes multiple times where I had to sit down and dig it out with my hands. For me, this was one of the most unforgettable moments. Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). There was no bridge. The mosquitos were relentless though. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. A number of camp sites here. It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. The views along the way make up for it. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. may have been made. Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. The trail immediately climbed high above the creek, and stayed there, perched on the canyon wall. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park
however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. It was not very buggy and lightly rained on 2/8 days. Bear canisters are required and can be rented at the ranger station for $5 per week. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux This high col skips the portion in Humphrey's Basin, Piute Meadows and Evolution Valley resulting in total distance of about 35 miles. Evolution Valley. What a sight! I loved seeing the pictures here as it helped me to realize how much more I need to get there. That pond is the same pond I had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon. The trail on the right leads north into French Canyon. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. Do you wish to share an stories about that particular spot? Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. Your email address will not be published. Great hike to explore the backcountry and multiple parks. Enjoy! Does this seem like a fair deal to you? Erika, the alpine pond photograph posted next to the Day 2 text is stunning. History. The log cabin is located on the right side of the trail as you hike south a short distance before the Piute Creek bridge. The One Subscription to Fuel All Your Adventures. The Vanderbilt Mine is located partly on private land in the San Bernardino County, two miles west of California-Nevada state lines in the New York mountains four miles southeast of the Ivanpah valley within the Mojave National Preserve. First it is ridiculed. You have to cross a river to get to them. The JMT headed off to the west before switchbacking its way down to the valley floor (700 feet of descent) while the creek simply dropped straight down over the side of the canyon. The mosquitoes were intense in certain areas. There was a traditional wide and shallow ford. I would head up the trail. I told them to skip Oregon, because it sounded mostly like boring forest with no views, and a hiker named Strawberry told me that there was a thing called Oregon in Two Weeks which skips the lame parts. Bugs werent that bad. We did it over 4d/3n (south lake to le conte, le conte to sapphire lake, sapphire lake to the junction with Piute pass trail, and then out to north lake on the last day). Did it South Lake to North Lake so the slog at Muir Pass was real and all trails GPS offline helped me navigate through snow/now visible trail, Did it in equiv of 4 days. The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. Florence Lake, east of Fresno, is the most convenient trailhead for backpacking trips to Evolution Valley. The Tyee Lakes part was not the most beautiful part and was pretty strenuous, but made transportation much easier. The hike up to Evolution Lake is steep, but reasonably graded. Again, I will say that there is plenty of water the whole way, so drink up. Camp at Wanda! The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. Lots of mosquitos in some areas. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. Water is abundant if you plan it right. Leave the JMT, and follow the drainage up to Darwin Canyon. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. Well, yeah, maybe then. We put in about 11.5 miles but it was almost all downhill or level deep-forest hiking. Now I cant breathe for another reason. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. I ate my usual cup of hot oatmeal and packed up my gear. In other words, I was probably dehydrated. Warm days in the upper 70s and the nights werent too cool either, even up at sapphire lake. This is high country and we had a brief hail & wind storm as well as our coldest overnight stay (mid 20 degrees Fahrenheit). My sincere thanks to the fire fairies who set this up for us. Plan a late summer trip to avoid the worst of them. Though cooler than July, day-wear was still shorts and t-shirts and nights two layers and a puffy jacket. North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow is very straightforward. Id get my chance eventually. Pick up permit, eat at Burger Barn, head to, Day One Piute Pass trailhead over Piute Pass down through Humphreys Basin to, Day Two Hutchinson Meadow down Piute Creek to the JMT junction down along the San Joaquin River to the, Day Three Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction Up to Evolution Valley then into Evolution Basin and camp at, Day Four Sapphire Lake up to Wanda Lake then summit Muir Pass then down into Le Conte Canyon and camp at, Day Six Up over Bishop Pass and down to South Lake . I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. Heres how I did it: Day one Take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, 20 miles west of Bishop, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. to North Lake Road, 20 mi to Pine Creek 856 110 to 114 SEKI - Goddard (28) Aspen Meadow & Goddard Creek Junction 851 to 855 114 to 121 SEKI - McClure Meadow (33) Evolution Valley, McClure, and Colby Meadows 845 to 851 121 to 127 SEKI - Evolution Basin (34) Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake, to Muir Pass 838.5 to . The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. Bishop Pass Trail to John Muir Trail to Piute Trail. Great Trip! John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. I had descended 2500 feet and climbed another 1000 feet to get up here. ALLTRAILS and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the United States as well as certain other jurisdictions. I needed both water and a flat spot. Saw plenty of deer, and other hikers saw a few bears in the meadows. Day 2 Dusy Basin to Big Pete Meadow A couple of favorite overnights: In Hutchinson Meadow alongside the creeks that flow from the Desolation Lakes upstream; the initial campsite in McClure Meadow in Evolution Valley; and a delightful little spot halfway down into Little Pete Meadow alongside the trail withers own small cascade and a pool of freshwater. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). Campsites: Lake Georg, Long Lake, descent down from Dusy Basin, Helen Lake, McLure Meadow, Puite Canyon Trail, Summit Lake. That was the new plan, I decided. Dinners were instant potatoes with packaged salmon or tuna along with instant soup or couscous. Their answers were vague, as expected, but they did say that there was definitely a spot a decent ways up the trail, but they werent great judges of distance. Piute Pass Trail - North Lake Beginning in lodgepole pine and quaking aspen, the trail follows the creek at the foot of Piute Crags and Mount Emerson. Highly recommend spending time in McClure Meadow if possible on this hike. An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. Follow it 2.1 miles back to the trailhead. Ascending out of 5,400-foot Taboose Pass Trail Head in the Owens River Valley, the Goliath climbs steeply and starkly into a saw blade of 13,000- to 14,000-foot Central Sierra mountains. Get to know the winter safety gear you need in your pack. Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. First campsite - Blaney Meadow (10 miles). Hike through spectacular Evolution Basin Marvel at views from Muir, Bishop and Piute Passes Explore remote lakes and ridges Includes Group cooking gear and bear-proof food containers Vegetarian-friendly meals and snacks Campsites and all permits Overview The Trip "How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains! Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. Along the way it climbs over 13,000' passes, wanders beneath high . We slept near the shores of Evolution Lake. We took the ferry both ways to save us some time and miles! I used my water like always. dirt and rock trail. About two miles after leaving camp, we exited off the PCT/John Muir trail and started up to Piute Pass. Mather Pass . The water was seriously cascading as it made its way over the steep edge of the valley, flowing downward into the South Fork San Joaquin River Valley, which I could see off the edge of space to the north. Good thing bruins dont like whiskey. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. The forest and meadows of Evolution Valley had been very beautiful, as had the waterfalls along the way. Although the trail from the head of Florence Lake to Evolution Valley climbs over 2,000 feet, most of the elevation gain comes during the last miles. Very nice hike, lots of scenery. I had my food in a bear cannister, But getting partway up toward the pass seemed like a fine idea. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. Hike up Muir Pass, down to Le Conte Ranger Station. The McClure Meadow is one of the most beautiful meadows I have ever seen! In addition, The John Muir Trail may be accessed via Piute Pass from North Lake which is only 10 miles from the resort. Starting at Lake Sabrina we could do a proper loop with just two 2 mile stretches on the road. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. One way for an adult is $15, round-trip $28; children 12 and under are $7 and $13. John Muir Rock rises directly to the east. It is a hard one but worth it. Hiked 6/12-6/17. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. A mother deer plus two babies. The trail skirts the northern shore of Loch Leven. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet
One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. This was an epic backpacking trip and I would do it all over again to see evolution basin, and everything in between. Completed hike Aug 14. It was desert like in the high alpine on that side. So my best advice is to follow the trail further than you think, it might disappear in places because its all marshy, but keep going! Many describe Evolution Valley as the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Completed 14-17AUG. Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. While the passes were more challenging and toward the beginning going CW, we loved the direction we chose. The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. Moderate. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. There were several wet crossings during the first three or four miles. There wasnt going to be much of a sunset from down in the canyon, so I went to bed early. The trail is popular with day hikers and backpackers on multi-day trips to Humphreys Basin, Evolution Valley and beyond. Personally, I simply call it a crazy, beautiful valley with great views. Lake Thomas A. Edison Ferry: Lake Thomas A. Edison from the ferry: . Next came McClure Meadow and the Ranger Station. We did 7 nights, 8 days with our first and last days being half days. For trail conditions and more details about this hike, check out my YouTube Video I made from this backpacking trip on my channel: Kikis Adventures. slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. the mouth of Evolution Valley. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. It was quite dramatic. P. i. psammophilus is known from the Salinas Valley and may be a synonym of P. i. neglectus (Best 1993; Williams et al. That was a big mistake. Perfect! My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. Pass along rocky shores of Evolution Lake JMT092 Location: 37.054474, -118.501686 Start of the Golden Staircase, last section of the JMT to be completed. this trail is definitly one of the top 5 trails in sierras. Diego, the 11-year-old Lab mix, was struggling; the family carried him part way. But it was still too hot for climbing, I told myself. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. Thanks to Covid regulations, the signs posted trailside asked people not to visit unless it was an emergency, One of the signs mentioned a Bold, Aggressive, Large Bear that had been raiding food at the Piute Creek area exactly where I planned to stay that night! Parking: A large parking lot for overnight trips is situated close to the lake. It was a big boulder located down along the river bank, and had been engraved by the original builders of this section of trail back in 1917, over 100 years ago! The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. Spectacular scenery abounds, with tumbling waterfalls, flowing creeks, glittering lakes, stately forests, and imposing mountains galore. As we got going again I was giving myself a pretty serious mental pep talk about taking it easy and giving myself the time needed to work my way up the 700 feet of rocky switchbacks. But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. The ferry is $25 roundtrip, or $13 one way. Here the trail climbs 700 feet of switchbacks to
I jumped up and pumped them for information. The next morning we discovered more good sites at the west end of the lake. Glaciers clung to the northern slopes of the mountains, feeding small waterfalls. She was seriously considering it. So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. A couple of our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking up. But we didnt see any rangers. GoPro video as I crossed the wooden bridge. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. Our group of six left a vehicle at the termination point (South Lake trailhead) then drove to the North Lake overnight parking lot and we started our journey in the late afternoon. In August we did North lake to south lake direction which avoided the climb up to Bishop pass. Since we stopped for lunch here and the lake has no name I guess Ill call it Lunch Lake. I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. Jackass Meadow and Ward Lake campgrounds are located near Florence Lake. This is about the halfway spot. I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. That felt great! I was breathing so hard I started to suspect my companions might have embraced some trail humor and stashed their heavy items in my pack when I wasnt looking. It tasted cold and fresh. for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. Was it this heavy yesterday? We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. There were a few sections that were mosquito-dense, but otherwise the bugs and critters were tolerable! Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. This was an absolute must do trail! The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Required fields are marked *. Then continue up the valley to McClure Meadow. Beautiful alpine lakes, waterfalls, and my God the meadows. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). I decided to stop for lunch a short ways ahead, and hung out in the shade next to the water with a couple of PCT hikers that Id spoken to earlier. Monday, they crossed 11,500-foot Piute Pass. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. Beautifully desolate. . Excellent! Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). The final day we packed out. Maybe if I waited a bit the sun would be at a lower angle as I headed north, so that the trees would have longer shadows for me to rest in. Amazing. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. I found a spot right next to the creek in the shade of a small grove of trees. $4,395: August 13-21. As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. My two recommendations. The tour described below is one example of a 7-day Ionian Basin tour. The year 2021 was certainly one of the driest in a long time, as it was early July and the hills were bone dry. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. The metal bridge over Piute Creek marks the border between Kings Canyon National Park and the John Muir Wilderness. It was only 1:30pm, and I had a decision to make: Was I going to camp near here (where the large, aggressive bear might be prowling) or was I going to continue hiking on the Piute Pass Trail, uphill for miles in this roasting heat? These Photos Prove It. Then I got some water and filtered it. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. I started hiking up the Piute Pass Trail, hoping to camp two miles further Piute Creek, below, and Mount Henry. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. 5.1 trip report. No rain. Dawn on Piute Pass Back toward Pilot Knob West side, baby! Ranger Station: McClure Meadow. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. It was gorgeous. Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. One bite of the Evolution area is liable to infect any passerby, causing even the most mileage-minded thru-hike If the John Muir Trail is the crown jewel of the Pacific Crest Trail, then the Evolution Basin and Valley are perhaps the most strikingly-sculpted gem to be carefully placed in that jewel. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! No mosquitos. From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. Ive seen worse, bug-wise. Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. It all worked out in the end, however. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. It is visible from the trail, but some hikers have walked past it without noticing it. Scale: 1:47,520 or inch representing 3/4 mile. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. In summary this section went from Lake Thomas A. Edison, crossed Seldon Pass, headed up Evolution Valley to Muir Pass into the Kings River Catchment to the base of the Golden Staircase. This was hands down one of the best hikes I've done in the High Sierras. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. We hiked up to Piute Creek the first day it was 13.1 miles since the ferry was not running on our hike up. Wished we could have camped at Evolution Lake as it's sooooo beautiful but it didn't work out for us. So peaceful and tranquil. I wasnt enjoying this as much as I would have liked. Evolution Valley Ascension, Kings Canyon National Park and John Muir Wilderness, California Sierra Club Outings Trip | Backpack More Photos Highlights Traverse high mountain passes including Piute and Muir Hike among lush green meadows full shallow tarns Enjoy a layover day to explore or relax Includes Moderate to the rim of the valley. Im a layman, what can I say? 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. And it was! 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. Bears are not much of a problem along this stretch of the John Muir Trail. Just as I was pondering what to do, a couple came down the trail! No more High Sierra tundra for me today! Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. Next time will have to aim to go under 30 pounds. I never made it that deep into the backcountry that summer. This trek met every expectation I had plus some! This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. Day 3: From camp, descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. "All truth goes through three stages. Following that, we returned to North Lake via Lamarck Col, a high pass just short of 13,000'. A ranger later informed us that 80-90 deer were migrating seasonally over the pass during a snowstorm in November 2018, when presumably blinded by the snowfall, they one by one hit a patch of ice and fell to their deaths. At least there might be shade along this section, I thought to myself. South Lake From South Lake, hike 6.0 miles up Bishop Pass (11,972 ft.). "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. I drank a lot of water. But the point is we were beat! Its not an extremely hard hike; most of it is pretty gradual and flat in the meadows, but there are two sections of switchbacks: heading up into evolution valley and heading up to evolution lake, but they werent too bad.